Seville in 48 hours
Seville is a city best taken slowly, in the shade, with long pauses in between. The old center folds Moorish palaces, a vast Gothic cathedral and whitewashed lanes into a space you can cross on foot in half an hour, and the river quarter of Triana keeps its own potters, bars and pride.
Best time to visit. March to May, and again from mid-October into November. July and August are fierce, with afternoons that regularly climb past 40°C. Holy Week and the April Fair are unforgettable but book up early and push prices up.
Where to base yourself
- Santa Cruz. The old Jewish quarter beside the Alcázar: narrow lanes, orange trees, tiled patios and tiny squares that empty out after dark.
- Arenal. Between the cathedral and the river, with the bullring, the Torre del Oro and plenty of traditional tapas bars.
- Triana. Across the Isabel II bridge, the home of Seville's ceramics workshops, a busy food market and flamenco roots.
- Alameda de Hércules. A long, tree-lined square to the north, where locals meet for late drinks and newer kitchens open.
- Parque de María Luisa. The quiet, green south side, around the Plaza de España and the pavilions of the 1929 exposition.
Two perfect days
Day one · Palaces and patios
- Morning
- Enter the Real Alcázar at opening, before the tour groups, and save time for its gardens
- Afternoon
- The cathedral and a climb up the ramps of the Giralda, then a slow lunch in Santa Cruz
- Evening
- Cross to Triana at sunset and eat standing at the bar, the way the neighborhood does
Day two · Parks and rooftops
- Morning
- Walk through Parque de María Luisa to the tiled alcoves of the Plaza de España
- Afternoon
- Casa de Pilatos or the Velázquez paintings at the Hospital de los Venerables, followed by a siesta
- Evening
- Up to the walkway of the Metropol Parasol, then a flamenco performance in an intimate venue
Getting around
The center is compact and mostly flat, so walk everywhere you can. A short tram line and a single metro line help at the edges, and the city's Sevici bikes suit the riverside paths. High-speed trains arrive at Santa Justa station, and an airport bus links the terminal with the center in roughly 35 minutes.
Local tips
- Sightsee early and late in summer; the middle of the day belongs to the shade
- Book a timed slot for the Alcázar online, especially in spring
- Order a few tapas at a time rather than all at once
- Many smaller shops close for a few hours in the afternoon