San Sebastián in 48 hours
San Sebastián, Donostia in Basque, sits around a shell-shaped bay framed by two green hills. It is a small city with an outsized appetite, and the simplest way to understand it is to walk the promenade by day and the bars of the old town by night.
Best time to visit. June to September for beach weather, although rain can arrive in any month. September brings the international film festival, and late winter into spring is cider-house season in the hills.
Where to base yourself
- Parte Vieja. The old town under Monte Urgull, packed with pintxo bars, churches and the Bretxa market.
- Centro. The 19th-century grid around the cathedral and along the Urumea river, smart and central.
- Gros. Across the river, with the surfers' beach of Zurriola, the Kursaal and a more relaxed bar scene.
- Antiguo and Ondarreta. The quieter western end of the bay, near the Miramar Palace and Chillida's Peine del Viento.
- Monte Igueldo. The hill at the far end of the bay, reached by an old funicular, with the widest view of the city.
Two perfect days
Day one · The bay
- Morning
- Walk the full length of La Concha promenade to Chillida's sculptures at the rocks
- Afternoon
- A swim at Ondarreta, then lunch in Antiguo
- Evening
- Pintxos in the Parte Vieja: one dish and one drink per bar, then move on
Day two · Hills and harbor
- Morning
- Climb Monte Urgull for views and the old fortifications
- Afternoon
- The San Telmo Museum, then the fishing harbor
- Evening
- The funicular up Monte Igueldo at golden hour, and a slower dinner in Gros
Getting around
Everything central is walkable, and bike lanes run along the bay. Local buses fill any gaps. The small local airport has limited routes, so many visitors fly into Bilbao, about an hour and a quarter away by road, or Biarritz across the French border.
Local tips
- Ask what hot pintxos are cooked to order; they are often on a board, not the counter
- Pay at the end, and do not be shy about getting the barman's attention
- Book proper restaurants well ahead, especially in summer and during the film festival
- Pack a light rain jacket even in August