Madrid in 48 hours
Madrid runs on a later clock than most capitals. Mornings belong to some of Europe's great painting collections, afternoons to a long lunch and the Retiro, and the night starts when dinner does, rarely before nine.
Best time to visit. April to June and late September to October bring mild days and terrace weather. Midsummer is hot and August is quiet, with some family-run restaurants closed. December is cold, bright and festive.
Where to base yourself
- Barrio de las Letras. The old literary quarter beside the Paseo del Prado, with quotations set into the pavement and good bars on every corner.
- Salamanca. Wide 19th-century avenues, designer shops and polished restaurants east of the Retiro.
- La Latina. Medieval street plan, tapas crawls along Cava Baja and the Sunday Rastro flea market nearby.
- Malasaña and Chueca. Younger, louder and full of independent cafés, vintage shops and late bars.
- Palacio. Around the Royal Palace and the Almudena Cathedral, with the Sabatini Gardens and sunset views west.
Two perfect days
Day one · The art mile
- Morning
- The Prado at opening; choose a few rooms, such as Velázquez and Goya, rather than trying to see it all
- Afternoon
- Lunch in Barrio de las Letras, then a slow loop of the Retiro and its glass Palacio de Cristal
- Evening
- Picasso's Guernica at the Reina Sofía, followed by a late dinner
Day two · Old Madrid
- Morning
- The Royal Palace and the Sabatini Gardens
- Afternoon
- Plaza Mayor, then vermouth and small plates around La Latina
- Evening
- Sunset at the Templo de Debod, then drinks in Malasaña
Getting around
The metro is clean, cheap and reaches almost every corner of the city; line 8 runs from the airport. Taxis are plentiful and charge a fixed fare between the airport and the center. High-speed trains to Andalusia and beyond leave from Atocha.
Local tips
- Lunch is the main meal and rarely starts before 2pm
- Several big museums open free for the last hours of the day; check current times
- On Sundays, the Rastro is busiest late morning
- A caña is a small draft beer, ideal for bar-hopping